The Marcel Irons...

 

 

 

Marcel Grateau (1852-1936)

 

 

 

In 1872, Marcel had introduced his famous Marcel wave using a heated iron that imitated the natural curl of the hair. Hot tongs were applied to produce a curl rather than a crimp. Done at intervals over the head, the hair would assume the look of moiré.
 It revolutionized the art of hairdressing all over the world. The Marcel wave remained popular for almost half a century and helped usher in a new era of women's waved and curled hairpieces, which were mixed with the natural hair.

Curly hair was meant to indicate a sweeter temperament, while straight-haired girls were considered reserved or even awkward. A woman's hair was profoundly important to the overall effect she was able to make. Reaching the age when the hair could be put up was a rite of passage in her life, and often there were several interim stages, where a plait would be loosely put up with a ribbon, to signify the coming event.  Mute the silence: Victorian Hairstyles. 2013.  - Mute the silence: Victorian Hairstyles. [ONLINE] Available at: http://mute-the-silence.blogspot.co.uk/2011/12/victorian-hair-styles.html. [Accessed 28 October 2013].

 

The difference between a Marcel and a typical curling iron is that most curling irons are spring-loaded; you open the clamp, and the clamp opens, you let go of the clamp, the clamp closes. A marcel curling iron usually consists of a shell, a curling barrel, and one barrel with a rotating handle. The benefits of a Marcel iron include more freedom to the user; without the spring, the user is responsible for “clipping” the hair to the iron (thus the name). The Marcel is usually used by professionals because users have total control.

Although Marcel curling irons can be tricky to maneuver at first, once you grasp the technique, you can truly create the professional curls that you desire. - Who’s Marcel?! | Vodana. 2013. Who’s Marcel?! | Vodana. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.vodanapro.com/whos-marcel/. [Accessed 28 October 2013].

Elizabethan hairstyles...

The Elizabethan women cared greatly about how they were portrayed and how they were looked upon. By creating the extravagant and flamboyant hair styles that they did, they showed wealth, power and authority. There were so many techniques that the Elizabethan women used to achieve the styles of the era. They used wigs, they died there hair, they used jewels and ribbon, they used height to create power, they put their hair in to different shapes, they used hoods and coverings... there were so many techniques that women used to create what they thought the perfect hair to create the perfect image. Elizabeth set the trends and dictated the fashions and hair styles the whole time she reined. The upper class women worshipped the ground that the queen lived on, they tried there hardest to mimic her every move, but most of all her overall style. They did what ever they could to achieve the look they most desired. Even if this meant torturing their hair!!

WIGS

 

 

 



Wigs were extremely popular in the Elizabethan era, Elizabeth having around 80 in her personal collection!! From what I can gather after researching is that some women preferred to wear wigs to cover up the fact that their hair was thinning or going very sparse, some women wanted to wear different colours so they wore wigs as this was easier than the horrendous concoction they bizarrely put on their hair to change the colour!! What interested me the most was the fact that many women craved hair just like Queen Elizabeth's that they went to every length (pardon the pun) just so they could join in with the fashions, and by this I mean they shaved off all of their hair just so that they could wear the wigs!!! They were also very creative in that they used jewels and hair pieces to again portray a look of wealth.

Hair Dye

 



 

During this era it was very popular to have fair hair, to achieve this look the women would go as far as using bleach and or urine and sit in the sun for hours!! (Thank goodness we are far more educated in this day and age!) Elizabeth was naturally a red head, and when she was in power of course the women who could afford too would use cumin seeds, saffron, oil and celandine to try and match Elizabeth's hair colour!

 

 

Jewells

 

 

 

 

The Elizabethan women who were wealthy wore different kinds of jewels in their hair. Many wore them as it was a sign of being wealthy and in this particular era portraying yourself as a well off and upper class citizen was highly sort after. Many women actually wore the jewels to cover up bald patches and mistakes in the hair.. such as  patchy hair dye!! They would lace the hair with pearls, rings of gold, strings of pearls, feathers, and even glass ornaments!

 

 

 

 Hoods and coverings

 

 

 

 

The style of the head covering dictated the hairstyle. Many of the hats were adorned with feathers, pearls, glass jewels, spangles, gold thread, embroidery and lace.

• The Coif - The coif ( commonly referred to as the 'biggin' ) worn by all children. Material was plain white linen, a close fitting cap tied under the chin. Coifs were often worn as caps to keep hair in place under more elaborate hats
• The French hood - Introduced from the French court by Anne Boleyn, the mother of Queen Elizabeth I. A half moon, or crescent, style band or brim sloping away from the face. The edges were often adorned with pearls or glass jewels, called bilaments, and a veil covered the back of the hair
• The Atifet - Similar to the French hood style but with a heart shaped crescent - favoured in white by Mary Queen of Scots. Lace trimmnigs were added
• The Caul - Cauls were the Elizabethan hair net! A Caul covered the hair at the back of the head and was made of fabric, or fabric covered by netted cord which was sometimes adorned with spangles.
• The Pillbox style of hat - often had a veil attached to the back

 

 During the Elizabethan era pamphlets were printed and distributed commenting on life in Elizabethan England. A writer of one such pamphlet was a well travelled Londoner called Philip Stubbes. He was believed to have been born c1555 and died c1610. He was well educated and attended both Oxford and Cambridge University. He was also a strict Elizabethan Puritan and held firm views on any social practices which, in his view were, unfitting  true Christians. He named his work " The Anatomie of Abuses " in which he strongly criticised many of the fashions and clothing worn during the Elizabethan era. It was entered in the Stationers' Register on 1 March 1583. This pamphlet includes his view and some valuable information about Elizabethan Hats for Women

 

"Than, on toppes of these stately turrets ( I meane their goodly heads wherin is more vanitie than true Philosophie now and than) stand their other capitall ornaments, as french hood, hat, cappe, kercher, and such like; wherof some be of velvet, some of taffetie, some (but few) of woll, some of this fashion, some of that, and some of this color, some of that, according to the variable fantasies of their serpentine minds. And to such excesse it is grown, as every artificers wyfe (almost) wil not stick to go in her hat of Velvet everye day, every marchants wyfe and meane Gentlewomen in her french-hood, and everye poore Cottagers Daughter in her taffatie hat, or else of woll at least, wel lined with silk, velvet or taffatie. They have also other ornaments besydes these to furnish foorth their ingenious heads, which they call cawles, made Netwyse, to th' ende, as I thinke, that the clothe of gold, cloth of silver, or else tinsell (for that is the worst) wherwith their heads are covered and attyred withall underneath their cawles maye appeare, and shewe it selfe in the bravest maner. So that a man that seethe them would thinke them to have golden heads. And some weare Lattice cappes with three hornes, three corners I should saie, like the forked cappes of the Popishe Priestes, with their perriwincles, chitterlynges, and the like apishe toyes of infinite varietie." - Elizabethan Hats for Women. 2013. Elizabethan Hats for Women. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.elizabethan-era.org.uk/elizabethan-hats-women.htm. [Accessed 28 October 2013].

 

 

 

 

Ribbon

 

 

 

http://www.ehow.co.uk/info_8613039_elizabethan-era-hairstyles.html

http://www.extremecostuming.com/articles/twoelizabethanhairstyles.html

http://elizabethancostume.net/jewelry/

http://www.rmg.co.uk/explore/sea-and-ships/in-depth/elizabeth/the-queen's-court/body-and-dress/*/viewPage/4

http://www.fashion-era.com/hats-hair/hair3-1485-1600-womens-hair-calthrop.htm

Begin to focus on the New Elizabethan project brief by discussing Elizabethan portraiture and symbolism...

 

Portrait of Queen Elizabeth I, standing between two columns holding an orb and sceptre; a copy after Crispin de Passe Engraving

 

********************************************************* 

 

We were set a task by Sharron to begin to explore Elizabethan portraiture and symbolism, and we were asked to find a portrait of this time, that we engaged in. So here is mine, it's not necessarily a typical portrait you would expect to find from the Elizabethan era, but this image really caught my eye and portrays authority and importance. Elizabeth's body language in this picture tells me that she knows who she is and is very comfortable with her power. She is confident and sure of herself.  

 

Above is a picture of the famous Orb. "The Sovereign's Orb is a type of regalia known as a globus cruciger and is one of the British Crown Jewels" - (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sovereign's_Orb).

 

"Regalia is Latin plurale tantum for the privileges and the insignia characteristic of a sovereign.

The word stems from the Latin substantivation of the adjective regalis, "regal", itself from Rex, "king". It is sometimes used in the singular, regale." - (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sovereign's_Orb)

 



"The globus cruciger (Latin, "cross-bearing orb") is an orb (lat. globus) topped (lat. gerere = to wear) with a cross (lat. crux), a Christian symbol of authority used throughout the Middle Ages and even today on coins, iconography and royal regalia. It symbolises Christ's (the cross) dominion over the world (the orb), literally held in the dominion of an earthly ruler (or sometimes celestial being such as an angel). When held by Christ himself, the subject is known in the iconography of Western art as Salvator Mundi ("Saviour of the World"). It is associated with the sceptre." - (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Globus_cruciger.)

I have to say, I am slightly confused as to where the Orb actually originates from, as after researching for some time I have come across several sites online that have different information and dates that don't match. I have added these links below.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sovereign's_Orb

http://www.historytoday.com/al-rowse/coronation-queen-Elizabeth





Elizabethan Hair Styles for women were designed to compliment the upper class fashions of the day. Ruffs, or ruffles, were in high fashion and during the Elizabethan era these became more elaborate and were constructed on gauze wings which were raised at the back of the head. The ruffs, or collars, framed the face and dictated the hairstyles of the age which were generally short for men ( at the beginning of the Elizabethan era) and swept up look was required for women. A frizzy hairstyle was also one of the required styles for women!

 

Women kept their hair long and the full natural beauty of their long hair was displayed by the young women of the era. The long flowing hair of a young girl was a sign of a virgin and the favoured hairstyle for a bride on her wedding day. An Elizabethan bride would adorn her hair with fresh flowers. Once a woman achieved the married status she wore her hair swept up. Much of the hair was covered by some form of head covering. Long hair was generally dressed in a bun to which the variety of head coverings could be pinned. The front and sides of the hair received great attention as this was the area that was most displayed.



 

"Hairstyles have evolved from a display of power and wealth to an expression of self and individuality.  Hair has been used as a medium to make political statements, rebel against social norms, and to tell one’s story.  Through the years hair has been braided, coloured, teased, and adorned to reflect not only the fashions of the day, but also the values of the era."

Shakespear qoute about beauty in the Elizabethan era...

“My mistress' eyes are nothing like the sun

Coral is far more fair tha n her lips fair

If snow be white, why then, her breast is dun,

If hair be wires, black wires grow on her head.

I have seen roses damasked, red and white,

But no such roses see I in her cheeks...”
http://mural.uv.es/abordel/GP1.pdf

A small follow on from my introduction... What are my initial thoughts and expectations?

So my initial thoughts when I received the brief "Red Heads and Royalty" at first were 'Wow, this is going to be interesting'! I remember that I loved History at school, and the Elizabethans really excited me and I found the whole era fascinating. As the years have passed since leaving school (I'm now 25) I have forgotten the exciting facts and information I had learned, so when I found out we would be doing this brief I was really looking forward to refreshing my memory and learning new facts I hadn't touched on before. Not only this, but it would be about Hair and Make-up... Kurrching!!!!

My initial expectations of the brief were to hope that I can learn invaluable techniques and skills by researching in to the Elizabethans and learning about their techniques.. as I feel that Hair styles and colours have adapted era by era, and if it wasn't for history then we wouldn't have what we do today. We wouldn't have the products we have, the tools, the knowledge.. So I think what I am trying to say is that I feel learning about Elizabethan hair will be a really exciting learning process and I will gain precious knowledge of what essentially, I feel, started the Hair phenomenon!

Introduction to "Red Heads and Royalty" brief...

1592 Queen Elizabeth I 1533-1603 with a Fan, Unknown Artist

 

"RED HEADS AND ROYALTY"

 

 



So "Red Heads and Royalty" is the name of my first brief for The Fundamentals of Hair & Postiche. We are going to be researching in depth about Elizabethan Hair, from the styles that they created, their techniques, products they used, tools they used, their influences, what the hair styles portrayed what backgrounds they came from, what colours were used on the hair... and anything else we find! As we are researching and finding inspiration we will be thinking about how to go about making these styles in to a contemporary 21st century adapted style! Eventually putting our ideas and inspiration in to a final look that will be created on a model.

 

We will be researching more in depth in to why they chose the colours they did, what inspired them to create the styles, textures, shapes that they did.. and how these styles described their status. At the same time we will be researching in to modern day contemporary Elizabethan styles, using this as a bases of inspiration for us to then go about creating our own version. Focusing on manipulating and changing certain styles with in one look.. making our own version a one off.

 

Eventually once we have enough research and inspiration to go ahead planning our final looks, we will design 3 looks taken from our research and present these to a partner or model, where they will then choose their favourite look, which THEY will then create on me.

 

All the while, we will be recording our process and journey on our Blogs... So welcome to mine.. It's a small insight to what goes on in the world of Chantelle.. I hope you enjoy being a part of my journey :)

 



Washing & Blowdrying...

 

 

So today in Lottie's Hair lesson we learnt how to blow-dry the hair from wet. We had already learnt how to wash the hair professionally the week before (see post below) so I won't touch on washing the hair in this post. I learnt an awful lot by doing this practical today as I had never focused on hair before. I don't know where to begin with my hair let alone on a clients hair. Generally my hair is chucked up and that's that.. I get on with my day. If I new how to create styles I would definitely spend the time doing them. So, I am excited for what's to come.

 

 

Here are some notes I took in todays lesson...

 

• First start of with a consultation with your client, getting to know them and their preference's, While you are consulting with your client figure out and decide what products you are going to use on their hair, if it is dry, then perhaps you will use serum, if it is flat then you would use mousse for a volume booster
• Part hair, if the client wants it at a side parting or in any particular place, cater to this. Otherwise part the hair where it naturally wants to part
• The best way to find the natural parting is to brush the hair backwards and then gently push the hair forwards and up slightly, allowing the hair to naturally want to fall where it wants to
• Once you have found your parting, be it your clients preferred parting or a middle parting, take the sides of the hair and push them forward with a comb, sectioning the hair in to 3 parts, both sides and back, make sure your sections are neat and clear, otherwise you will struggle
• Blast the hair getting most of the moisture out. Once you have done this then put your product on the hair being careful not to use to much, or too little
• Blasting the hair so that it is not too wet will allow the product to do its job. If the hair is too wet then this will just dilute the product, essentially defeating your wanted outcome
• Before you start to blow-dry the hair work out whether or not your clients hair dries quickly or not, if it does use a low heat setting on your hair dryer, if it takes a while, use the higher heat setting. Use full power
• Using a round bristle brush will help grab the hair right from the roots, allowing you to create volume-  this will give you great lift at the roots
• Start at the base of the neck
• Start by drying the roots, take your brush and start off by pushing the hair backwards and forwards, push the root in the opposite direction that you want the hair to come down
• Slightly turn your hand when drying as this will give lift
• If you do not dry the roots properly then the hair will drop!
• Once the roots are dry, start drying the mid length- move/push the hair dryer in the direction you want the hair, making it smooth
• There are holes in the round bristle brushes, these are deliberate as they help air flow
• Once mid length is dry you can now move on to the ends
• Don't brush the hair as the next section will be wet, this will ruin your hard work and the volume in the hair will disappear!
• Repeat the same process as I have just mentioned for the next section
• Remember to keep tension in the brush all the time, keep hair dryer moving so you don't burn the clients scalp
• Don't at any point run your fingers through the hair until the hair has cooled! This will manipulate the hair in to something else ruining all the hard work you have just done!
• Once you have dried the hair and you are happy with it you can then use the cool setting to set the hair or, you can allow it to cool naturally but keep your fingers OFF the hair until its cooled
• When you come to blow drying the top section blow dry the hair away from where it naturally want to sit (push it away) The brush is sitting underneath the hair to help you control what your doing
• Use the hairdryer to hold hair in place as otherwise your going to keep having to put the hairdryer down
• If you are working with long hair, using a large paddle brush may be easier and quicker to use as they work with more hair and create really smooth straight hair
• So, remember... Keep tension in the brush! Your looking for a lift! Make sure roots are dry! Don't touch the hair with your fingers! And you want STRAIGHT hair! :)
• AND REMEMBER.. YOU ARE IN CONTROL OF THE HAIR, THE HAIR DOES NOT CONTROL YOU!!!









 

Products I used:

• Gown
• Towel
• Shampoo
• Conditioner
• Round bristle brush
• Hair dryer

"Hairstyles have evolved from a display of power and wealth to an expression of self and individuality. Hair has been used as a medium to make political statements, rebel against social norms, and to tell one’s story. Through the years hair has been braided, coloured, teased, and adorned to reflect not only the fashions of the day, but also the values of the era."

http://chertseymuseum.org/hair

“Hair is essential to a face as a frame is to a picture.” - Leonardo da Vinci

SMART... there are different types of smart in my opinion, but when I think of smart, I see the style in this picture. It's neat and tidy but with an elegance to it. I could see this being worn to an awards, a job interview, an office, a meeting... its a really versatile look yet it looks stunning and timeless.

WILD & SMART... what do I percieve as wild & smart? I researched WILD and came acorss this picture, which I think portrays the word WILD perfectly, well, in my personal opinion. It captures the true escence of the word wild and portrays the meaning behind it. Of course I could have gone for a picture that was totally wacky and crazy but, personally, I think this hair style is pretty damn wild and out of this world!

 

 

 

Ley and I booked a pod in the library.. Brainstormed each of our projects so we can go about them knowing exactly what we are doing. Can’t wait to get stuck in!

“The Renaissance lasted from about 1400 into the early 1600s. This period covers the Tudor and Elizabethan eras in Britain. Styles in dress and hair grew in decorative complexity at this time. Italian Renaissance women displayed their hair with braids and ribbons. Women elsewhere in Europe hid their hair under elaborate coverings. Headdresses became smaller after 1500 and ladies displayed more hair.”

http://www.ehow.co.uk/info_8241969_hairstyles-renaissance-period.html

Me washing Danielle Packmans hair in Lottie’s class. First time! Loved doing this, didn’t think I would enjoy hair as much as I do make up but I was surprised! Looking forward to getting further into this project.

 

“Renaissance society considered a large forehead to be beautiful. Ladies plucked all the hair from the front of their heads to make the hairline recede.”

http://www.ehow.co.uk/info_8241969_hairstyles-renaissance-period.html

“In the Middle Ages, it is thought that Europeans did not pay much attention to removing hair, but by Elizabethan times in the 1500’s, Europeans began removing hair again. Surprisingly, one of the most popular areas to remove hair from wasn’t the legs or underarms – women would remove their eyebrows and front hairs from their heads to give the illusion of a fashionably elongated forehead, the preferred look of the day which some attribute to the natural look of Queen Elizabeth herself – a testament to her influence of the culture, fashion of the time. According to some reports, mothers would try to prevent hair from growing on the foreheads of their children so the child had the best chance at having a nice, long fashionable forehead!”

http://www.nonohairtv.com/history-of-hair-removal/